Millstone Edge

Millstone and its straight walls and clean arêtes is the undisputed master of gritstone quarries. Its most famous route, Ron Fawcett's Master's Edge (line 22), was at the time of its first ascent (1983!) one of the hardest trad routes in the entire world, and remains a testpiece to this day.

 

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Route List

1: March Hare, E3 5c, Regan, 1975

2: Dextrous Hare, E3 5c, Taylor, 1976

3: April Arête, HVS 4c, Clarke, 1960s

4: Dexterity, E1 5b, Drasdo, 1957

5: Windrête, E2 5b, Evans, 1969

6: Breeze Mugger, E5 6b, Dearden, 1990

7: Meeze Brugger, E5 6b, Fawcett, 1984

8: Eros, HVS 5a, Grayson, 1969

9: Lyon’s Corner House Direct, HVS 5a, Leaver, Twyford, 1957

10: Winter’s Grip, E6 6b, Foster, 1983

11: Keelhaul, VS 4c, Loy, 1960s

12: Quiddity, HVS 5a, Loy, 1960s

13: Stone Dri, E2 6a, Regan, 1976/Humphries, 1977

14: Crew Cut, HVS 4c, Clarke, 1963

15: Yourolympus, HVS 4c, Brodie, Gregory, 1969

16: Myolympus, HVS 5a, Grayson, 1969/Dyslewicz, Evans, 1969

17: Under Doctor’s Order, E2 5c, Sharples, 1987

18: Jealous Pensioner, E4 5c, Burton, 1978

19: Edge Lane, E5 5c, McKenna, Olsen, 1984

20: Great West Road, E2 5b, Johnson, 1957/Evans, 1965

21: Green Death, E5 6b, Proctor, 1969/Proctor, 1970s

22: Master’s Edge, E7 6b, Fawcett, 1983

23: Pure Now, E9 6c/F8a, Randall, 2014

24: Great Arête, E5 5c, Proctor, 1975

25: Knightsbridge, E2 5c, 1950s/Proctor, 1973

26: Scoop Crack, VS 4b, Loy, 1960s

27: The Scoop, Diff, 1950s

28: Clock People, E6 6c, Fawcett, 1984

29: Watling Street, E2 5b, Millsom, 1960s

30: Detour, E2 5c, Jones, Reading, 1975

31: The Hunter House Road Toad, E5 6b, Brooks, Pretty, 1985

32: By-Pass, HVS 5a, Loy, 1963

33: Great North Road, HVS 5a, Biven, Peck, 1956/Brown, 1957

34: Quality Street, E5 6b, L. Bonnington, 1968/Burke, Rouse, 1983

35: Technical Master, V4, Lien, Nelson, 1983

36: Blind Bat, E4 5c, Fowler, 1976

37: Embankment Route 1, E2 5c, Allen, 1975

38: Who Wants the World?, E5 6a, Gibson, 1981

39: 10,000 Maniacs/Elm Street, E8 6c/F8a, Parker, 1986/Berry, 1994

40: Embankment Route 2, VS 4c, 1960s

41: The Compromise, E1 5b

42: Scritto’s Republic, E7 6c, Fawcett, 1982

43: Embankment Route 3, E1 5b, Drummond, Jones, 1970

44: Time for Tea, E3 5c, Drummond, 1975

45: Tea for Two, E4 6a, Riddington, 1982

46: Time for Tea, Original Finish, E1 5b, Wilkinson, 1974

47: Embankment Route 4, E1 5b, Addy, 1975

48: Whitehall, HVS 5a, Biven, 1956/Myhill 1969

49: The Jasmine Corridor, E6 6c/F7b, Randall, 2010

50: Lotto Direct, E3 5c

51: Lotto, E1 5c, Loy, 1960s/Proctor, 1975

52: Little Lotto Arête, V2

53: Seventies Style Wall, V3

54: Covent Garden, VS 4b, Biven, Peck, 1956

55: Scruples, E6 6b/F7a+, Evans, 1987

56: Bond Street, HVS 5a, 1956/1960s

57: Monopoly, E7 6b/F7a, Dawes, 1983/Dawes, 1984

58: Great Portland Street, HVS 5b, Clarke, 1963

59: The Impetus for Stranger Faeces, E5 5c, Marsden, 1994

60: White Wall, E5 6b, Reading, 1976/Bancroft, 1976

61: The Mall, VS 4c, Biven, Peck, 1950s/Brown, 1957

62: London Wall, E5 6a/F7a+, Allen, 1975

63: Urban Sprawl, E6 6b, Heap, Mitchell, 1997

64: Badly Bred, E1 5c, Bancroft, Stokes, 1977

65: Lambeth Chimney, HS 4b, 1956

66: Old Kent Road, Diff, 1950s

67: Alopecia, HVS 5a, 1960s

68: Petticoat Lane, HVS 4b, Loy, 1956

69: Bow Street, HVS 5b, Fitzgerald, 1956/McHardy, 1967

70: Metal Rash, E1 5b, Gibson, 1978

71: Brixton Road, VDiff, 1950s

72: Skywalk, VS 4b, 1960s

73: The Economist, E6 6b, Randall, 2004

74: Adam Smith’s Invisible Hand, E6 6b/F7b, Dawes, 1984

75: Oxford Street, E3 6b, Biven, Peck, 1956/Burke, 1969

76: Coventry Street, E5 6b, Bancroft, Allen, 1976

77: Jermyn Street, E5 6a, Biven, Peck, 1956/Birtles, Proctor, 1975

78: Regent Street, E2 5c, Bevin, Peck, 1956/King, 1968

79: Shaftesbury Avenue, HVS 5a, Bevin, Peck, 1956/Campbell, 1967