Castle Mountain - West Face

One of the most unique mountains featured here, Castle Mountain is a 5km long wall overlooking the Transcanada Highway just before Lake Louise. With better rock than elsewhere in the Canadian Rockies, short approaches, a cute little hut from the Alpine Club of Canada and fairly moderate climbing (if you don't count Sonnie Trotter's 5.14 route, Castles in the Sky!), it should be no surprise that this is one of the more popular venues for alpine rock climbing in the region.

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Route List

1: Lookout Buttress 5.9, Auger, Congdon, 1986

2: Iron Donkeys., 5.10c, Ballard, Learn, Walsh, 2004

3: Another Little Sweatbox, 5.10c, MacLeod, Sampson, 2001

4: Sickle Ridge, 5.5, Crocker, Gude, 1968

5: God Lives, 5.6, Dickinson, Reisenhofer, Schaller, 2009

6: Seventh Buttress, 5.5, Vockeroth et al., 1975

7: The Pillsbury Dough Boys Go on Holidays, 5.9, Haden, Stirling, Stoliker, 1993

8: Forgiven, 5.9, Campbell, Stoliker, 1994

9: Rim Job, 5.11a, Haberl, Jagger, 1993

10: Bass Buttress, 5.6, Farrand, Greenwood, 1968

11: Kraut Pinnacle, 5.6, McKeith, Sterner, 1971

12: Bass Buttress, Direct Start, 5.7, Calvert, McKeith, 1972

13: Damned If You Do, Damned If You Don’t, 5.10, Gross, Koffmann, Quinn, 1985

14: Catch-22, 5.9, Greenwood, Jones, 1971

15: Papillon, 5.7, Jones, Kallen, 1980

16: Beckey-Marts Route, 5.?, Beckey, Marts, 1963

17: Sitsika Nation, 5.9, Haden, Stoliker, 1995

18: Happy Corner, 5.10a, Everett, Reisenhofer, 1996

19: Labour Day Buttress, 5.10c, Arbic, Auger, 1990

20: Tous Ensemble, 5.9, Homer, Jones, Rogan, Wood, 1972/Arbic, Auger, 1986

21: Ultra-Brewers, 5.9, Auger, Sheehan, White, 1987

22: Velcro Grip, 5.9, Beardmore, Holeczi, 1999

23: Brewer Buttress, 5.7, Brewer, Irwin, 1961

24: Cadot Buttress, 5.7, Boisselle, Cadot, 1975

25: North Ridge of Eisenhower Tower, 5.6, Boss, Wallace, 1971

26: Grassi Route, 5.5, Cerutti, Grassi, 1926/Newhall, Zwicky, 1927

27: Southwest Face Direct, 5.7, Lofthouse, Peyer, 1967

28: Southwest Buttress, 5.7, Lopeteki, Scott, 1965

29: Hickson Route, 5.6, Feuz, Hickson, 1926

30: Naeve Route, 5.6, Greer, Naeve, 1929

31: Castles in the Sky, 5.14a, Trotter et al., 2013

32: The Moat, 5.11+, Pullan, Trotter, 2015

33: Sam’s Gift, 5.13a, Eastman, Lambert, 2014

34: Traditional, 5.6, Campbell, Everett, 1996

Updates

May 15, 2024: Graphic design update