Gogarth - South Stack

In Britain (and possibly in the world), it doesn't get much more adventurous than climbing on the seacliffs of Gogarth. Despite their relatively low height and easy access, there is so much packed in the psychedelic walls of (often very loose) quartz and sandstone of Mousetrap Zawn, Red Walls and Castell Helen.

Perched on the rugged western edge of Anglesey, Gogarth's reputation as a testing ground for climbers is legendary, and even the easier graded routes deserve much attention and respect. To make things even more interesting, many of the routes are submerged during high tide, adding time pressure to any ascent.

Free download link - medium resolution, personal use only (no printing allowed)

Route List

1: A Winter's Tail, E5 6a, P. Littlejohn, D. Garner, Dec. 2001
2: Two Fat Slabs, E5 6a, M. Turner, L. Thomas, 1997
3: Hysteresis, E4 5c, L. E. Holliwell, B. Whybrow, Oct. 1971/Lawrie, 1973
4: Catatonia, E5 6a, P. Littlejohn, D. Garner, Dec. 2001
5: The Final Front-Ear, E6 6b, P. Pritchard, G. Hughes, L. Nimoy, Aug. 1997
6: The Indirect Start, E3 5c
7: Primate, E2 5b, J. Brown, I. MacNaught-Davies, May 1967
8: Rosebud, E6 6a, S. Haston, R. Kay, Aug. 1986
9: Primevil, HVS 5a, P. Crew, G. Birtles, Oct. 1966
10: The Green Slab, HVS 4c, S. Wroe, D. Crilly, P. Braithwaite, Jun. 1965
11: Helmet Boiler, E5/XS 5c, M. Fowler, A. Saunders, Sep. 1984
12: Dai You Late, E5 6b, M. Turner, D. Lampard, 2000s
13: Mousetrap, E2 5b, J. Brown, P. Crew, Oct. 1966
14: Death Trap Direct, E6 5c, C. Waddy, G. Hughes, W. Perrin, P. Robins, 1988/2003
15: Death Trap, E5 5b, M. Fowler, A. Baker, Aug. 1982
16: Cannibal Pizza, E3 6a, M. Turner, L. Thomas, 2000
17: Mantrap, E3 5b, L. E. Holliwell, L. R. Holliwell, R. Isherwood, 1969
18: The Head Strimmer, E4 6a, D. Towse, A. Wainwright, 1997
19: Another Roadside Attraction, E5 6a, G. Tinnings, P. Trower, Aug. 1980/S. Haston
20: Mantrap OG, XS 5a
21: Bedlam, E3 5b, J. Brown, P. Crew, Oct. 1966
22: The Original Girdle, E3 5b, M. Howells, J. Kosterlitz, May 1968
23: The New Girdle, E1 5b, L. E. Holliwell, B. Whybrow, Dec. 1971
24: Auricle, HVS 4c, J. Brown, A. Fuller, Sep. 1967
25: The Horn of Plenty, HVS 5a, P. Pritchard, G. Hughes, Aug. 1988
26: Alligator, E2 5b, A. Evans, P. Williams, J. Moran, B. Winteringham, Aug. 1978
27: Cannibal, E4 5c, J. Moran, A. Evans, P. Williams, B. Winteringham, Aug. 1978
28: Cannibal Direct Start, E5 6a, T. Hodgson, P. Pritchard, Oct. 1986
29: Cannibal Direct Finish, E5 5c, M. Pointon, 1993
30: Cannibal Schittlegruber-Gibbers Finish, E4 5c
31: Schittlegruber, E5 6b, P. Pritchard, N. Harms, Aug. 1986
32: Howell the Trowell, E7 6c, M. Turner, A. George, 1991
33: Mein Kampf Direct, E5 6a, P. Pritchard, G. Hughes, 1986
34: Mein Kampf, E5 6a, J. Moran, D. Cuthbertson, P. Williams, P. Aubrey, Aug. 1979
35: Mein Shaft, E6 6b, G. Farquhar, W. Young, Oct. 1997
36: Ramalina, E6 6b, M. Turner, K. Goodey, Sep. 1991
37: Left Hand Red Wall, E3 5c, J. Brown, P. Crew, Jun. 1967/H. Barber, 1976
38: Heart of Gold, E5 6a, M. Fowler, P. Thomas, Oct. 1978
39: The Super-Duper Calabrese, E6 6b, N. Dickson, J. McHaffie, Aug. 2007
40: The Super Calabrese, E7 6b, P. Pritchard, R. Drury, Jan. 1987
41: The Enchanted Broccoli Garden, E6 6b, P. Pritchard, M. Thomas, Aug. 1986
42: Deygo, E3 5c, T. Proctor, G. Birtles, Apr. 1968/R. Fawcett, J. Heseltine, 1973
43: Pagan, E4 5c, P. Littlejohn, A. Houghton, 1973
44: Salem, E4/5 6a, P. Pritchard, P. Johnson, Jan. 1987
45: Yarding Lard, E6 6b, M. Turner, S. Hartland, Aug. 1985
46: Infidel, E3 5c, B. Winteringham, J. Brown, M. Winteringham, Aug. 1978/G. Tinnings, 1978
47: Outside the Asylum, E5 6a, P. Pritchard, P. Johnson, Jan. 1988
48: Anarchy in the UK, E3/4 6a, M. Turner, A. George, J. Rotten, 1989
49: Anarchist, E1 5b, B. Winteringham, J. Moran, Aug. 1978
50: Care in the Community, E5 6a, G. Huxter, J. Jones, Oct. 1995

51: The Missionary, E4 5c, M. Fowler, P. Thomas, Oct. 1978
52: Puritan, VS 4c, B. Winteringham, M. Winteringham, Sep. 1977
53: Atheist, E4 6a, B. Winteringham, M. Winteringham, Sep. 1977/L. McGinley, S Haston, 1981
54: Three Men and a Cake, E4 5c, M. Crook, 1988
55: Heathen, E1 5b, B. Winteringham, M. Winteringham, Aug. 1977
56: The Cruel Seam, E5 6b, G. Smith, S. Howe, Aug. 1988
57: This is the Sea, E5 6a, M. Crooks, J. Tombs, Aug. 1987
58: The Featherstone, E5 6b, C. Waddy, Sep. 1988
59: Smear Campaign, E8 6b, A. Mason, J. McHaffie, Sep. 2014
60: Satan's Scream, E8 6c, J. McHaffie, C. Muskett, Nov. 2013
61: Into the Light, E2 5c, M. Crook, A. Popp, Aug. 1987
62: Snatch in the Storm, E3 6a, P. Jenkinson, C. Waddy, Sep. 1988
63: Red Warbler’s, E4 6a, G. Smith, J. Toombs, D. Holmes, A. Wainwright, R. Kay, N. Dixon, Aug. 1996
64: Bottom of the Pile, E2 5c, H. Jones, G. Huxter, 1998
65: Red Wall Escape Route, VS 4c, J. Brown, D. Alcock, Sep. 1966
66: The Electrification of the Soviet Union, E4 6a, S. Haston, R. Kay, Aug. 1986
67: The Cree, E3 6a, J. Moran, G. Milburn, P. Williams, Nov. 1978
68: Roger Melly, E4 6a, M. Turner, O. Jones, Aug. 1983
69: The Safer Start!, E4 5c, B. Winteringham, M. Winteringham, Dec. 1978
70: Television Route, E4 5c, J. Brown, I. MacNaught-Davies, 1966/J. Moran, B. Winteringham, P. Williams, Aug. 1978
71: Khmer Rouge, E5 6a, J. Moran, P. Williams, Aug. 1978
72: Blood Baath, E4/5 6a, C. Parkin, D. Holms, Jan. 2005
73: Redshift, E3/4 5c, P. Littlejohn, H. Clarke, May 1976
74: Dangerous Liaisons, E3 6a, C. Parkin, S. Long, 1988
75: Wendigo, E2 5b, J. Brown, T. Moulam, Sep. 1966

76: Blue Remembered Hills, E3 5c, G. Tinnings, P. Trower, D. Parker, Aug. 1980
77: Red Haze, E3/4 5c, J. Brown, P. Crew, Aug. 1969
78: Rapture of the Deep, E4 5b, J. Brown, B. Winteringham, M. Winteringham, Sep. 1978
79: Red Wall, E2 5b, J. Brown, P. Crew, Sep. 1966
80: No Way Jose, E4 5c, T. Neill, T. Grant, A. Teasdale, Oct. 2014
81: Last of the Summer Wine, E4 5c, D. Howard-Jones, J. Brown, S. Boyden, Sep. 2000
82: Fantasia, E3 5c, B. Winteringham, M. Winteringham, Oct. 1978/J. Moran, P. Williams, 1979
83: Communication Breakdown, E3 5c, D. Cronshaw, D. Knighton, Sep. 1978
84: Doppelgangen, E3 5b, J. Brown, D. Alcock, Sep. 1966/S. Haston, 1978
85: A Brown Study, E3 5c, E. Drummond, B. Campbell-Kelly, Feb. 1970
86: Fire and Grimstone,  E5 5c, A. Wainwright, J. Harrison, Sep. 1996
87: The Tiger's Den, E5 6a, M. Turner, K. Goodey, Sep. 1991
88: The Maze, E4 5c, E. Drummond, B. Campbell-Kelly, 1970/G. Tinnings, L. McGinley
89: Nematoid, E3 5c, A. Wainwright, J. Harrison, Sep. 1996
90: Captain Nemo, E3 5c, A. Newton, M. Crook, Sep. 1986
91: Black Light, HVS 4c, A. Wilmot, M. Spring, D. Edwards, Sep. 1969
92: Woodlight, HS 4a, T. Neill, J. Bertalot, Sep. 2011
93: Fluorescent Ridge, VD, T. Neill, J. Bertalot, Sep. 2011
94: Lighthouse Arête, VS 4c, A. Cram, M. Yates, Oct. 1966
95: Lighthouse Arête Direct, VS 4c, A. Cram, M. Yates, Oct. 1966
96: A State of Saturation, HVS 5a, 1984
97: Blanco, HVS 5a, J. Brown, D. Alcock, Sep. 1966
98: Poseidon, VS 4c, D. McGonigal, J. Doodson, W. Sutherland, May 1970
99: The Direct Finish, E1 5a, D. Lyon, J. Frost, K. Robertson, C. Lyon, 1976
100: Peel, VS 4c, P. Crew, D. Alcock, Oct. 1966

101: Freebird, E1 5b, A. Evans, N. Siddiqui, G. Milburn, J. Moran, Mar. 1978
102: Northwest Passage, E1 5b,  J. Moran, A. Evans, G. Milburn, N. Siddiqui, May 1978
103: Rap, VS 4c, P. Crew, D. Alcock, Oct. 1966
104: True Moments, E1 5b, A. Hyslop, D. Knighton, May 1978
105: Atlantis, E1 5c, J. Brown, A. Alcock, Sep. 1966
106: Obelisk, E6 6b, D. Alcock, J. Anthoine, 1969/S. Haston, M. Crook, 1981
107: Free Stonehenge, E6 6b, S. Haston, R. Kay, Aug. 1986
108: Vital Statistix, E8 6c, M. Turner, L. Thomas, Jun. 1995
109: Kalahari, E3 5c, J. Brown, P. Crew, Oct. 1966/G. Birtles, J. Brown, B. Ingle, 1967
110: Gobi, HVS 4c, P. Crew, J. Brown, Jan. 1967
111: Where Puffins Daren't, HVS 5a, A. Evans, G. Milburn, N. Siddiqui, S. Horrox, May 1978
112: Echo Madness, E6 6b, M.Turner, C. Wentworth, 1995
113: Stochastic Groove, VS, I. MacNought-Davies, A. Alvarez, G. Clarke, Oct. 1966
114: Serendipity, VS, C. Bonington, M. Thompson, Jun. 1967