Mont Blanc - Face Est

Wild, difficult to access and dangerous, the Brenva face of Mont Blanc is also home to some of the longest and most committing snow and ice climbs of the Alps, as well as the hardest route up Mont Blanc, Divine Providence. Through the 20th century, it was the testing ground for a lot of the top climbers and skiers in the world, with names like Bonatti, Grassi, Gabarrou, Marsigny, De Benedetti and Boivin everywhere in the credits. Today, it sees very few attempts, apart from a few classics. 

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Route List

1: Pilier Central de Freney, TD+ 7a, Bonington, Glough, Duglosz, Whillans, 1961
2: Intégrale de Peuterey, TD+ 5, Hechtel, Kittelmann, 1953
3: Voie Güssfeldt, D, Güssfeldt, Klucker, Ollier, Rey, 1893
4: Éperon NE, D, Bron, Müller, Müller, 1925
5: Couloir NE, D/5.4 E4, Gabarrou, Suzuki, 1975/Benedetti, 1980
6: Face N, Voie de Gauche, D, Chabod, Grivel, 1933
7: Face N, Voie de Droite, D,/5.3 E3, Bastien, Coutin, Gaudin, Julien, 1952/Baud, Vallençant, 1977
8: Face NE du Col de Peuterey, AD, Herzog, Herzog, Rébuffat, Terray, 1944/Boivin, Gabarrou, 1977
9: Voie Bonatti-Zapelli, ED-, Bonatti, Zapelli, 1963
10: Voie des Polonais, ED A3, Chrobak, Laukajtys, Mroz, 1969
11: Faux Pas, ED- A1, Fijackowski, Kozackiewicz, 1983
12: Divine Providence, ED+ 7c/7a obl., Gabarrou, Marsigny, 1984
13: Voie Bonatti-Gobbi, ED- A1, Bonatti, Gobbi, 1957
14: Un Autre Monde, ED+ 6c A4, Lafaille, 1991
15: Voie des Slovaques, ED WI3 5c A2, Chrenka, Launer, Mizicko, Piacek, Svec, Tarabek, 1976
16: Voie des Belges, TD+ 6a, Caise, Grandmont, Munting, 1977
17: Voie Cecchinel-Nominé, TD+ WI5 5c A1, Cecchinel, Nominé, 1971
18: Directissime Gabarrou-Long, ED- WI5 5c, Gabarrou, Long, 1983
19: Voie Boivin-Vallençant, TD+ WI5, Boivin, Vallençant, 1975
20: Voie Bouchard, TD+ WI4+ 5c, Bouchard, 1975
21: Voie Dufour-Fréhel, TD+ WI4 5c A1, Dufour, Fréhel, 1973
22: Voie Baumont-Becker, TD+ WI4, Baumont, Becker, 1976
23: Voie Bonatti-Zapelli, TD WI4, Bonatti, Zapelli, 1962
24: Voie des Japonais, D WI2 X, Inoue, Matsumi, 1974
25: Le Sérac de la Poire, D+ WI3 X, Comino, Grassi, 1979/Joyeusaz, 2020
26: Voie Contamine-Merle, D+ X, Contamine, Merle, 1951
27: La Poire, D+ 4c X, Aufdenblatten, Graham Brown, Graven, 1933
28: Descente Diagonale de la Brenva, Borgeot, Buro, Hewitt, 2024
29: Grand Couloir de la Brenva, D XX, Shigi, Shigi, 1979/Valeruz, 1978
30: Cascata Major, ED WI5, Civra Dano, Vidoni, 2021
31: Voie Mazeaud-Sorgato, TD- 5c X, Mazeaud, Sorgato, 1971
32: Voie Major, D WI2 4b X/5.4 E4, Graham Brown, Sidney Smythe, 1928/Benedetti, 1979
33: La Sentinelle Rouge, D X/5.4 E3, Graham Brown, Sidney Smythe, 1927/Bessat, 1977
34: Éperon Mummery, D X, Gréloz, Roch, 1936
35: Couloir de Droite de l’Éperon Mummery, D X, Dubois, Flouret, Laut, 1976
36: Voie Diagonale, D X/5.4, Azéma, Charlet, 1937/Benedetti
37: Éperon de la Brenva, D X/5.2 E3, Anderegg, Anderegg, Matthews, Moore, Walker, Walker, 1865/Holzer, 1973
38: Jardin Suspendu, AD+, Chovin, Merlin, Page, Pouey, Perroux, 1990
39: Vendredi 13, D, Fayard, Gerbaud, Perroux, 1995
40: Variante Güssfeldt, AD, Croux, Güssfeldt, Rey, Savoye, 1892/Holzer, 1973
41: Brenvitudes, 5.3, Sainte Marie, Tardivel, 2009
42: Voie du Caribou, 5.3, Bonnet, Tardivel, 2010
43: Voie Gruber, Gruber, Rey, Von Bergen, 1881
44:Descente Tardivel, 5.3 E3, Tardivel, 1988
45: Couloir du Bicentenaire, D+ WI5, Fava, Grassi, 1986
46: Voie Domenech-Hanoteau, D, Domenech, Hanoteau, 1974
47: Goulotte Ghersen-Twight, D WI4 5a, Ghersen, Twight, 1989
48: Goulotte SE, D WI5, Grassi, Marchisio, 1985
49: Nata di Pietra, TD- WI5, Grassi, Rossi, 1989
50: Tableau d’Honneur, D WI4, Chovin, Merlin, Page, Pouey, Perroux, 1990
51: Country Couloir, TD- WI5, Belinger, Fantini, 1979
52: Bonnet d’Anne, TD- WI5, Gabarrou, Marsigny, 1988
53: Voie Griffin-Torrans, D+ WI1 5a, Griffin, Torrans, 1975
54: Overcouloir, TD- WI5, Grassi, Margaira, Siri, 1986
55: Voie Diagonale, D/5.4 E4, Baumont, Decorps, 1977/Benedetti, 1983
56: Voie Giannina, TD, Bonatti, Ferrario, Oggioni, 1959
57: Couloir E, D, Bonnenfant, Simonet, 1961/Boivin, 1982
58: Neige, Glace et Mixte, D WI4, Artru, Damilano, Guérin, Heinz, Maurus, Perroux, Pilou, 1996
59: Variante des Suisses, Aubert, Dittert, Marullaz, 1937
60: Dom, TD+ WI6, Gabarrou, Marsigny, 1987
61: Voie Crétier, D+ 5c, Binel, Chabod, Crétier, 1929
62: Voie Bougerol-Mroz, TD 5c, Bougerol, Mroz, 1971
63: Voie Bonatti, TD 5c, Bonatti, Gallieni, Oggioni, 1959
64: Slovaque Directe, TD+ 5c A1, Chrenka, Launer, Piacek, Tarabek, 1975
65: Carroz d’As, TD- WI5, Broisin, Gabarrou, 1987
66: Voie Kagami-Perren, D+ WI3, Kagami, Perren, 1929
67: Directe Polonaise, TD- WI3 6a, Sadus, Zawadzki, 1963
68: Rencontre au Sommet, TD- WI4+, Grassi, Marchisio, Marsigny, Rossi, 1985
69: Couloir SE, TD- WI4+, Gabarrou, Steiner, 1981
70: Arête Küffner, D, Burgener, Furrer, Küffner, 1887

Updates

Dec 3, 2021: Added a new route (Cascata Major), opened November 2021.

Oct 22, 2022: Graphic design update

March 7, 2024: Graphic design update

Aug 19, 2024: Major redesign, added line 28 (Descente Diagonale de la Brenva, 2024), redrew many lines, updated colors, thickness and label placement.