Mount Hicks - South Face

If next door Aoraki rightfully takes the spotlight, the real testing ground for hard ice and mixed routes would be Mount Hicks (though some would argue it is more of a bump on Aoraki's long WNW ridge). With a cold and steep south face, not unlike the east face of Grand Pilier d'Angle in Chamonix, it has seen some of the best and hardest climbing in the Southern Alps. I would however not recommend getting on it if it looks like in the photo, shot at the end of a warm summer!

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Route List

1: West Ridge Divide, IV, 3+, H. Ayres, O. Coberger, Feb. 1951
2: Dingle-Button, II, 3+, R. Button, G. Dingle, Jun. 1979
3: Tales of Choss, III, 4+, A. MacFarlane, R. Parkyn, Feb. 1984
4: Deardissima, III, 4, M. Beare, P. Deavoll, Jun. 1999
5: Dance Commander, IV, 4+, G. McKinnon, Jan. 2014
6: King Hit, IV, 6, H. Barnard, D. Vass, Jun. 1995
7: Highway to Hell, V, 5+, H. Grierson, J. Pope, Dec. 1996
8: Heaven's Door, V, 5+, R. Braddock, K. Logan, Jan. 1983
9: The Curver “Original Direct”, V, 5+, L. Clay, R. Kirk, Aug. 1986
10: The Curver “Neo Classic”, V, 6, K. Brown, S. Fortune, Nov. 2013/(Pre-rockfall: N. Cradock, T. Sorenson, Aug. 1979)
11: One for Pavle, V, 5+, P.Kozjek, G. Kresal, S. Slejko, Mar. 2004
12: Gunbarrels*, V, 7, B. Denz, P. Herron, M. Judge, Jun. 1975
13: Yankee-Kiwi Couloir, V, 6, N. Cradock, T. Sorenson, Aug. 1979
14: Left Buttress Direct Starts, V, 6, N. Cradock, N. Kagan, Feb. 1978
15: Left Buttress Original, VI, 5, G. Dingle, M. Jones, Dec. 1970
16: Desolation Row, VI, 5+, B. Denz, N. Perry, Jan. 1981
17: Generation Y, IV, 6, M. Thom, J. Vinton-Boot, Oct. 2011
18: Central Gullies, V, 5, B. Denz, P. Gough, E. Kummer, Nov. 1972
19: Logan's Run, V, 6+, K. Logan, P. Sinclair, Dec. 1983
20: The Tingler, IV, 6+, D. Fearnley, J. McCallum, Oct. 1987
21: Right Buttress, V, 5, G. Dingle, N. Sissons, Dec. 1972
22: Ice Trek, IV, 5, M. Beare, P. Deavoll, Aug. 2002
23: Hicks-Dampier Ridge, IV, 3, S. Brookes, J. Cox, M. Edgar-Jones, Jan. 1938
24: Right Icefields, IV, 4+, M. Browne, K. Woodford, Nov. 1972
25: Hicks-Dampier Couloir, IV, 4+, S. Sweeney, D. Waugh, Jan. 1972
26: Fantini-Dignan, V, 4+, T. Dignan, J. Fantini, Jan. 1987
27: Maori Route, V, 4+, N. Kagan, M. Whetu, Feb. 1983
28: Barcham-Waterhouse, IV, 3+, P. Barcham, B. Waterhouse, Jan. 1955
29: Original Route, IV, 3, J. Clarke, T. Fyfe, G. Graham, Dec. 1894
30: Fyfe's Gut, X
31: South Ridge, IV, 3
32: Lower Earle Ridge, III, 3