Snowpatch Spire West Face - Pigeon Spire North Face

Like the nearby Howser Towers, the two granite peaks of Snowpatch and Pigeon Spires have very different characters depending on which aspect you look at: long and steep on their east and south aspects, with extreme aid and free routes (and now rockfall), and a lot more moderate on very reasonable 300m high faces rising above the Vowell glacier. The west ridge of Pigeon Spire, in particular, is an easy classic with a very unique feature: pit toilets with the best view in Canada!

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Route List

1: Buckingham Route: the Enjoyable Way, 5.8, Buckingham, Guess, Page, Wipple, 1958

2: Eli the Bad Guy, 5.10, Chartrand, Rennie, 2016

3: Wedding Jitters, 5.11-, Atkinson, Fraser, Giesler, Rankin, 2009

4: Gran-Hudson, 5.7 A2, Gran, Hudson, 1961

5: Tobin Sorenson/Flamingo Fling, 5.10, Accomazzo, Sorenson, 1975

6: North Summit Direct, 5.11+, Morand, Sonneuye, 1979/Gibson, Rohn, 1981

7: Bugaburl, 5.11d, Brazeau, Moorhead, 2006

8: Tower Arete, 5.12- R, Gibbons, Green, Hecht, 1986

9: Wile Flowers, 5.12a/b R, Brazeau, Brett, 2013

10: Super Direct, 5.10+, Preshaw, Preshaw, 1992

11: Tam-Tam Boom-Boom Pili-Pili, 5.11+, Faivre, Lemoine, Tanguy, 1987

12: Beckey-Rowell, 5.10+, Beckey, Rowell, 1967/Bowers, Edwards, 1997

13: Beckey-Greenwood, 5.10, Beckey, Greenwood, 1959

14: Liver and Fava Beans, 5.10, Chartrand, Hanson

15: Wildflowers, 5.9, Dougherty, Higbee, 1974

16: Kraus-McCarthy, 5.9+, Kraus, McCarthy, Rupley, 1956/Ourom, Weinstein, 1974

17: Furry Pink Arête, 5.10+, Croft, Foweraker, 1981

18: Which Way, 5.10, Copeland, Thomas, 1987

19: Dégringolade, 5.10, Hechtel, Jones, 1973

20: Attack of the Killer Chipmunks, 5.10, Creighton, Thompson, 1986

21: Henault-Trout, 5.10, Henault, Trout, 1974

22: Surf’s Up Direct, 5.9, Davies, Derouin, 1971

23: Surf’s Up, 5.9, Greenwood, Homer, 1971

24: The Beach, 5.11-, Atkinson, Piché, 2002/Gibson, 2012

25: Wingtip Arête, 5.10-, Atkinson, Green, 1987

26: Northwest Face, 5.7 A3, Beckey, Chouinard, 1961

27: Feather Fallout, 5.10, Johnson, Mikesell, Skelding, 1974/Hanson, Piché, 2010

28: Tail-Feather Pinnacle Left, 5.10, Atkinson, Eltis, Fodor, 1989

29: Direct Becky, 5.10, Hanson, Philips, 2010

30: Tail-Feather Pinnacle Right, 5.10-, Benson, Green, Klein, 1987

31: West Ridge of Pigeon Spire, 5.4, Cromwell, Kaufmann, 1930

Updates

May 15, 2024: Graphic design update