Taipan Wall

An overhanging wave of bright orange sandstone, the Taipan Wall in Mt Stapylton Amphitheater could well be the best of all Australian climbing (though nearby Arapiles might want a word about that). Serpentine (line 45) might be the most famous, but there is no shortage of (very hard) climbing all along the cliff.

As with most Grampians climbing, there are major access issues following the discovery of aboriginal artifacts. The whole wall was closed for a while, but after consultations with climbers, most of the left two thirds of it were reopened. Routes to the right of Nether (line 75), including the whole Spurt Wall, are still closed, and a few other lines had to be re-routed. This is highlighted on the image by the line color (blue hues for anything open, red hues for closed ones).

 

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Route List

Open Routes

1: Gunigalg Gully Connection, 8

2: Mission over Tokyo, 18, McIntosh, Taws, 1988

3: Atomic Tadpole, 20, Lindorff, Tempest, 1977

4: Tokyo Rose, 18, McIntosh, Taws, 1988

5: Posy, 24, File, Monks, 2005

6: Ukrainian Geranium, 21, Goding, Lindorff, Monks, 2004

7: Sordid Orchids Direct, 26, Monks, Monteith, 2005

8: Sordid Orchids, 26 A1, Robbins, Shepherd, White, 1990

9: Black Adder, 29, Cresswell, Pollitt, 1990

10: Dinosaurs Don’t Dyno [rerouted], 26, Carrigan, 1984

11: Lure Groove, 25 A1, Heaps, Jones, 2005

12: Clean Sweep, 24 A1, Carrigan, 1985

13: Clean Sweep Connection, 23 A1

14: Dance of Life [rerouted], 24 A1, Carrigan, 1984

15: The Mint [rerouted], 25, Demmert, Monks, Monteith, Rewi, 2008

16: The Great Divide, 27, Carrigan, Scheel, 1984

17: Divided Years, 25, Lockie, Monteith, Paterson, 2005

18: The Chick is Trouble [rerouted], 26, Taylor, 1999

19: Daedalus, 29, Jones, Saunders, 1997

20: The Seventh Banana [rerouted], 27, Due, Mudie, Reeves, 1975/Monks, Wilkinson, 1988

21: Chinook, 28, Dick, 2013

22: Sirocco, 26, Matheson, 1989

23: Father O’Blivion, 26, Mentz, 1991

24: Pythonesque, 27, Monks, 2013

25: Cardigan Street, 31, Miller, Wyithe, 1995

26: Mirage, 27, Matheson, 1990

27: Orange Desire, 32, Chastagnier, 2013

28: Snake in the Grass, 26, Chastagnier, 2013

29: Medusa, 25, Carter, Poultney, 1995

30: Hydra, 24, Dick, 2016

31: The Seventh Pillar, Left Variant, 23, Moorhead, Ozols, Reece, 1980

32: The Seventh Pillar, Free Variant, 28, Jones, 1997

33: The Seventh Pillar, Direct Finish, 28, Jones, 1997

34: The Seventh Pillar, 18 A2, Guild, Stone, 1966

35: The Seventh Pillar, Right Variant, 22, Lindorff, Monks, 2004

36: Lawrence of Arabia, 21, Lockwood, Matheson, Smith, 1991

37: The Great Affair, 33, Hukkataival, 2017

38: Quetzalcoatl, 29, Jones, 1990s

39: Feather Boa, 29, Jones, 1998

40: Kundalini, 29, Critchley, 2015

41: Askleipios, 34, Megos, 2015

42: Scud Buster, 25, Pollitt, Smith, 1992

43: Rage, 29, Pollitt, 1992

44: Angst, 29, Demmert, 2011

45: Serpentine, 29, Matheson, Monks, 1988

46: Sidewinder, 27, Walter, 2000

47: Naja, 30, Jones, 1998

48: Sneaky Snake, 33, Cossey, 2011

49: Bossanova, 30, Saunders, 2001

50: Chicane, 29, Saunders, 2000

51: Romancing the Tango, 25, Saunders, 2000

52: Bad Habits, 20 M1, Mercer, Walsh, 1997

53: Natural Wastage, 25, Monks, White, 1990

54: The Rubicon, 18, Lockwood, Thomson, 1972

55: Non-Passerine, 22, Loughran, 1990

56: Tyger, Tyger, 27, Pollitt, White, 1990

57: Time Warp, 16, Mercer, Walsh, 1997

58: Their Finest Hour, 21, Dodd, Gallagher, Little, Loughran, 1990

59: Blunt Instruments, 14, Mercer, Pease, 1997

60: Centaur, 13, Mudie, Thomson, 1970

61: Icarus, 11 M4, Bengston, Gerberding, Roberts, 1984

62: Pegasus, 31 A1, Mudie, Thomson, 1970/Pollitt, 1990

63: Gilgamesh, 31, Due, Mudie, 1974/Cossey, 2008

64: Apollo, 22, Monks, Will, 2008

65: Artemis, 21, Gara, Monks, Timms, 2008

66: Zuul, 20, Lodge, Watts, 2019

67: Zeus, 17, McIntosh, Taws, 1987

 

Closed Routes

68: Dinosaurs Don’t Dyno [original lower section], 26, Carrigan, 1984

69: Dance of Life [original start], 24 A1, Carrigan, 1984

70: The Mint [original start], 25, Demmert, Monks, Monteith, Rewi, 2008

71: The Chick is Trouble [original lower section], 26, Taylor, 1999

72: The Seventh Banana [original start], 27, Due, Mudie, Reeves, 1975/Monks, Wilkinson, 1988

73: Slytherin, 26, Dick, 2016

74: Serpentine, Direct Start, Hukkataival, 2017

75: Nether, 28, Dermody, 2006

76: Groovy, 28, Heap, 1997

77: Groove Train, 33, Cossey, 2009

78: Snake Flake, 26, Matheson, 1990

79: Snakes on a Train, 32, McConnell, 2012

80: Le Serpent de’ Pantalon, 33, Cossey, 2013

81: The Invisible Fist/Professor Hiddich Smiddich, 26, Jones, Poultney, 1996

82: Southern Delight, 34, Fischhuber, 2012

83: Jumping Viper, 26, Monks, 2007/van Gastel, 2013

84: World Party, 27, Cresswell, Pollitt, 1990

85: Constrictor, 21, Monteith, 2004

86: World Party to Anaconda, 16

87: Anaconda, 28, Matheson, Mentz, 1993

88: Forked Tongue, 26, Pola, 2006

89: Mr. T, 25, Phillips, 2006

90: Mr. Joshua, 26, McCulloch, Mentz, 1989

91: Sheek Naja Ket, 30, Cossey, Pryce, 2008

92: Mr. V, 26

93: Mr. Que, 27 

94: The Old Dog/Enter the Dragon/Mortal Kombat, 34, Megos, 2015

95: Tourniquet, 30, Jones, 1997/1998

96: Venom, 28, Monks, 1995

97: Rattler, 27, Paterson, 2011

98: Rattlesnake Shake, 26, Monteith, 2007

99: Kaa, 24, Lockwood, Monks, 199

100: Naughty Tickle Town, 28, Heap, 1996

101: Cripple Nipple, 30, Hoette, 2002

102: Who’s a Naughty Boy?, 31, Miller, 1998

103: Lifestyling, 30, Saunders, 2000

104: Not Too Bad, 28, Carter, 1994

105: Menstrual as Anything Direct, 25, Bridge, 1994/Bresnehan, 2004

106: Bottom Feeders, 26, Phillips, 2006

107: Nights in Venice, 26, Paterson, 2009

108: Splutter, 25, Monteith, 2006

109: Dial-a-Lama, 24, Lama, 1995

110: Sticky Fingers, 27, Young, 2013

111: Weak Boy, 26, Phillips, 2000s

112: Fabio’s Route, 29, Sellars, 1998

113: Spurt Girl, 28, Sellars, 1998

114: This Spurting Life, 26, Wyithe, 1994